Method of making welting



Aug. 20, 1935. w. c. VlZARD METHOD OF MAKING WELTING Original Filed Aug. 2, 1930 I VlllIlllll/I/IIIIIIIIIIIIIL 0 IN VENT OR Patented Aug. 20 1935 1 UNITED STAT-es v -William C. Vizard, Brockton, Mass, assignoncby I mesne assignments, to Barbour Welting Com- I pany, 'Brockton, Mass, a co-partnership composed'of Perley 'E. Barbour, Walter G. Barbour, and Richard H. Barbour Application August 2, 1930, Serial No. 472,556

Renewed March 15, 1935 8 Claims. (01. 12-446) This invention relates to-welting for boots and shoes and is especially concerned with such welting useful in the manufacture of shoes of the nailed and McKay varieties.

In the manufacture of such shoes the construction may be improved by applying a beaded welt in the weltcrease between the outsole and inlastedmargin of the upper forminga piping. or gasket at this point. Such welting is attached by m a separate operation eitherto the unbottomed lasted shoe or to the margin of the outsole before laying, conveniently by stitching. Because of the type of shoe in which itis most generally used this welting has been designated nailed welt.

An object ofthis invention is to produce nailed welting which is stronger than similar welting heretofore available in that it is of an integral or one-piece construction with the consequent advantagesof longer wearing quality and simplified and cheaper manufacturing advantages. v

To the accomplishment of this object and such others as may appear fromthe following description, the invention comprises the processes and methods of manufacture hereinafter described claims.

An understanding of the invention will be'aided I by aninspection of the accompanying drawing in which: i

Figure 1 shows a portion, in perspective, of a leather strip from which the nailed welt is produced;

Fig. 2 illustrates the general method of cutting the strip of Fig. 1 to form a blank from which the nailed welt is constructed, at the same time salvaging two flesh strips useful for stitchdown V welting;

Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate the first and final steps of folding and molding ablank similar to that of Fig. 2 to complete the process;

Fig. 5 illustrates one way of applying the nailed welt for visibility at the shoe crease;

Fig. 6 shows a section of a nailed shoe il1ustrat-' ing the position of the nailed welting therein; and Fig. 7 shows, in cross-section, two modified shapes of the longitudinal rib on the nailed welt blank.

In the manufacture of the nailed welt a strip of leather I0 is taken, having, agrain side G and a flesh side F, of such width as to produce a welt of the desired width after folding. This strip is run past knives so shaped or arranged as to out two strips l4 and Hi from the flesh side F leaving a centrally located longitudinal rib l8 formed of 5 the flesh, and an uncut and unmarred grain side G.

may be desired. Thereresults-a welt-2,4 having'a and then particularly pointed out in the appended It will be observed from Fig. 2 that the rib i8 is not exactly central of the width of theweltblank 20 produced by the cutting operation, i. e. "the fleshstrip I4 is somewhat wider thantheflesh; strip l6 thereby leaving a'wing l5'at one margin 1 5 of the blank of greater width than the wingl'l at its other side. Next the blank is cemented on its flesh side and the wider wing l5 is folded about the rib and upon the-narrower wing l'l in; the manner illustrated by Fig. 3. The wider wing-.15 0: provides for coveringv the rib and retaining .a flush inner edge. The two wings are then pressed to-. gether and the ribbed edge 22 is. ironed or molded to .a rounded form (see Fig. 4) or other shape as flat attaching body or margin 25 and'an outer bead 22 cored or filled with an integral portion of the flesh, and provided with a complete grain surface except at its inner edge.

When the flesh stock is comparatively soft the strips 14 and I6 may be of rectangular cross-section, as illustrated in Fig. 2, because the corners on the rib I8 of such soft stock may readily be molded to any desired shape, but if the flesh-stock is comparatively firm, then the cuts at theinner edges of the strips M and I6 will desirably be such 25 "as to reduce the thickness of the upper portion of the rib, as at 18a or 182) (Fig. 7) so that it may more easily be moldable to a desired shape. Two modified forms of the nailed welt blank 20 are shown in cross-section by Fig. '7.

One advantage of this novel construction is that if by long wear, or for any other reason, the wing l5 covering the core Wears through then the exposed rib l8, being of leather, will present a simi-' lar and hardly distinguishable wear surface. Furthermore because the rib is an integral part of the welt it cannot be detached or string out of a hole even though exposed.

Fig. 5 is illustrative of one way in which the welt 24 may be applied for use in a nailed shoe.

a The welt 24 is stitched about the margin of the limitedthereto and it may beused in connection with other shoemaking processes. 1

7 Attention is called to applicants co-pending application for Call: sole welting and the like,

disclosed herein and such'equivalents as are permitted by the prior art.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and the preferred method of manufacture and characteristic form of the welt and one of its uses having been specifically described what is claimed as new, is?- l. The method of making'welting which comprises severing two marginal strips from the flesh side of a strip of grain surfaced leather the cuts being spaced so as to'leave an integral longitudinal flesh rib, then folding one of said-margins about said integral flesh rib as a core and securing it against the other margin.

2. Themethod of making welting according to claim 1 in which the flesh strip taken from one margin is widerthan that taken from the other to form a longitudinal flesh rib that is off-center widthwise of the strip. r r

3. The method of -making wel'ting which com prises producing a blank from a strip of grain leather having an uncut grain side, two thinned wings and an intermediate longitudinal fies-h rib, then cementingthe flesh and'folding the strip to completely enclose said rib with grain covered stock. v

4. The method of making welting which comprises forming two thinned wings on a strip of grain covered leather by severing a flesh side strip from each margin but leaving a narrow intermediate portion of the strip of the original thickness, then cementing the flesh faces of the two thinned Wings together.

' 5. The methodof making' welting'which comprises producing ablank from a'strip'of grain.

leather havingan uncut grain side, two thinned wings and an intermediate longitudinal flesh rib prises removing'two marginal strips from the same face of a strip of grain covered leather to provide thinned margins and a narrow connecting portion thicker than the margins, and folding and securing the two thinned margins together to leave the thicker connecting portion along one edge of theweltingQ a 7. The method of making welting according to claim 6 in which, after folding, the thicker por tion is molded to form a bead atone edge pre-' senting an outwardly-facing shoulderl 8. The method of producing one piece"we'lt-' ing having a grain faced beaded edge which cornprises removing stock from both margins at one face of a strip of grain leather, leaving an 'inbetween portion of the full thickness of the strip; and then folding said thinned margins together to form a flat body leaving said thick in-betweenl portion at one edge'of said body.

WILLIAM C. vIzAaD; 

